Tips to help recover from snow mold
• Remove snow and ice from turfgrass areas (this is easier said than done).
• Lightly rake the grass to promote air circulation and to allow light to penetrate the canopy and encourage new shoot and leaf develop.
• If there is any dead or matted material, rake and remove. In the case of dead turfgrass, renovate the site.
• If the site did not receive appropriate fertility in the fall, a modest application of started fertilizer would be recommended.
• For gray snow molds, the damage is done, so fungicide applications are of little to no benefit at this time. In the case of pink snow mold / Microdochium patch (that occurs in the late winter or into the spring) fungicide applications would be recommended, especially if cool wet conditions are experienced.
How to identify the different snow molds
To identify gray snow molds, look for the sclerotia (a compact mass of mycelium that is the survival structure of the pathogen, on the leaf tissue and debt. Typhula incarnata has reddish-brown to dark-colored sclerotia that are rather large, up to 0.2” in diameter. Typhula ishikariensis has much smaller sclerotia that appear similar to flecks of black pepper on the leaves and debt. Active mycelium is a white to gray color.
Pink snow molds do NOT produce sclerotia, and the active mycelium is a pinkish to white color, depending on exposure to light. Both gray and pink snow molds occur together, so it can be difficult to assess which is the predominate pathogen.